making more shiny bits

 Acroduster  Comments Off on making more shiny bits
Nov 182019
 

Just so I remember the sequence of work next time around.

Make sure you have the proper radius tool to make the nose radius. I had to make my own, which was not as hard as it sounds. Just take you time with the dremel. This was an old tool that I (ab)used for this purpose.

Drill a square piece of alu/brass or whatever with a 6 mm hole so that you can securely put the brass rod in the tool holder. Since I don’t have a 4 way chuck, mine was drilled off-center but that does not matter. Tap a few holes for M4 bolts to hold the brass rod. The are other methods to do this, I simply show what I did, not because it is the best method.

Cut a piece of 6 mm brass approx 20 cm, that way you can make ca 10-12 pieces at the time.

Drill the 6mm rod with a 2.5 mm drill, at least 20 mm deep. This will be tapped to M3 later. (If you have a 2.4mm drill, you should use it, 2.5 is slightly oversize if I remember correct)

Round the nose with the specially radius-ed tool. You need to do this before cutting the slots. Believe me, this will work better.

Next transfer the rod to the aluminum holder. I want to cut ca 10 mm on both sides, so make sure it sticks out ca 12 mm.

Now comes the trick: make sure the outside of the blade lines up exactly with the outside of the brass piece. You only want to cut a saw’s width off the sides. Run lathe at a fairly high speed, and feed slowly. You really want the blade to cut. Repeat on the other side. Next eyeball the blade in the middle and make a 6-7 mm deep cut.

This was the first try, later I rounded the nose before cutting the sides.

Insert the rod in the chuck again, and reduce the backend to ca 4.5mm.

Use a bit of fine sandpaper to rub off and smooth any bits that don’t look good. When done and happy, part at a total length of 17mm.

I could make 50 more, then select the best. Practice makes perfect and all that. For the time being, TLAR!

I tapped the holes with M2, and will install proper steel bolts when all is done.

These few bits took you all day? Yeah, but I did disassemble and clean up the lathe as well, There was some play in the cross support that was hard to get rid off. It’s all good now 😉 (look at mini-lathe.com for guidance)

 Posted by at 5:37 pm  Tagged with:

I did not like the clevises …

 Acroduster  Comments Off on I did not like the clevises …
Nov 162019
 

..so fiddling around I managed to make a better one, that looks more scale like. I did have some thin saws from the pound shop so here we goes. Those things are undoubtedly not made for what I use them for, but as always, go slow and be careful. I tapped a hole in a 12mm rod I had lying about, and fitted the blade. Clamp a 6 mm brass rod in the support and go slowly. The design is basically copied from Dubro 4-40 rod ends. I have a few of those, but they are tapped for 4-40 thread, with is approx 2.8 mm. Not enough flesh on them to tap a M3 hole, and I don’t have any imperial taps/dies lying around to make the rods. Hence the ‘need’ for DIY.

They are ok, but look too big
result after a good days work..
in real life it always looks better then on a photo.
This looks really good, and the size look right!
Machine-made and Me-made

Next step is make a handful more, and get the streamline tubing for the bottom braces. Stab side of the tube will be flattened with a hole drilled through (easy), the other side is adjustable like above. In fact, this adjustable one goes on the fuselage side, but that does not matter.

So, 4 in total for the bottom, m3 threaded. 8 for the top, solid with a hole for the bracing wire.

Wow, many hours of fun coming up!

The smaller the parts, the longer it takes to make them.

 Acroduster  Comments Off on The smaller the parts, the longer it takes to make them.
Nov 122019
 

There must be a law for that! Anyway, at the moment of writing I have half the brackets done. Most challenging part is cutting without cutting meat-ware. So far all fingers are present. Material is 0.8 mm stainless, not the easiest to work with. I had some nice clevises from Pete Tindal*, they look good and do the job just fine. They were meant to be used with glue and a 3 mm carbon rod, but cutting a 4mm thread in the hole works great. Cutting a 4 mm bolt to size and drilling a hole for the wire seems to work. I might tidy up the bolt end, it does not look to grand. ( *only people of a certain age will know Pete)

Pete Tindal clevises. He who keeps everything has a lot of junk.
Top elevator, cables, bottom streamline tubing.
Polishing everything will make it look better!
cut narrow 6.5 mm strips
some elbow grease required to make them look nice
and bend them the required 129 degrees. (141 degrees for stab side)